A little bit cheesy: you are lying under a palm tree on the beach with golden sand and sipping on coconut milk.
In front of you, the azure Andean Sea, in whose clear warm waters you can endlessly splish-splash This is what Phuket offers in full loads.
This largest Thai Island was half a century ago one of the quiet places of the Kingdom of Thailand. The inhabitants mostly work in tin mines, cultivate rubber trees and fishing. In the 1960s, American soldiers who went there to relax after the fighting in Vietnam discovered its long golden-sand beaches. They found what millions of tourists appreciate today. In addition to the beaches and the beautiful nature, there is also great hospitality and friendliness of the locals: delicious food, great massage.
After the Tsunami, Soldiers Arrived
But tourism also brought negative issues. Especially the illegal construction of all kinds of night go-go bars or ping-pong shows, and along with that, although officially banned, but otherwise tolerated by country, prostitution, drugs… The vices, which you can freely participate in, for example, at Soi Bangla, the most ravishing fun street at Patong Beach, really don’t have the boundaries.
However these are the attractions for people from all over the world. Thousands of them came there to spend Christmas 2004. From a quiet morning, when fortunately many were just having breakfast or even sleeping because of lively night, hell broke out. The water level first stepped unprecedentedly into the sea to return a few minutes later in the form of giant multi-meter waves. The tsunami that caused the Pacific Ocean earthquake has killed more than half a hundred people in Phuket, destroyed hotels, beach businesses, and stripped the entire family of their living.
As the island recovered from the destructive damage of the tsunami, another disaster came. In October 2014, after the coup the military junta took over the country, hundreds of soldiers drove to Phuket’s beaches. They were ruthlessly demolishing bars, stands, buffets, massage parlors, as well as luxury restaurants and nightclubs. They also took away all the sun loungers and umbrellas. Military generals justified this “operation” by fighting a taxi and drug mafia, which allegedly included corrupt local officials. Although it has been almost five years since that event, most of the ruins, in the meantime covered with a lot of garbage and weeds, continue to be the backdrop for the most beautiful beaches, such as Surin Beach.
They Are Inventive
Many guests are pleased about the beaches without loungers and umbrellas.
But Thai people are hardworking people. They aren’t waiting for something that will grow on the beaches under the supervision of some other than “honest” mafia. They have been granted permits to operate so-called picnic kitchens. But they have to pack them up every night and at least officially move them from the place. You usually meet there the whole families. The grandparents dance around the stove, the parents prepare great fresh juices, and the children after barely coming home from school attend customers. They do everything with a smile on their face. When leaving, they don’t forget to bow a few times and say thank you “kob-kun mak.”
In the early evening, a girl with a scooter drives around the stands, and she puts to the basket boxes with leftovers. Then she delivers it to old and sick people. It also belongs to Thai customs. Everybody needs to be taken care of because there isn’t any social system or support from the government.
Many guests are pleased about the beaches without loungers and umbrellas. They look more natural and free. But skilled Thai people are very creative. They invented silk inflatables that are filled with air. All you have to do is to set the opening towards the wind, and you can comfortably lie in the shade of high palm trees in a few minutes.
Text and photo: Jana Janků
